How to Groom Like a Professional: The Gentleman's Guide to Shaving
The modern man shaves like he commutes: quickly, mindlessly, with the sole goal of getting it over with. The old money man shaves differently. For him, shaving is not a chore to be rushed. It is a ritual — five minutes of discipline, care, and quiet attention before the day begins. The outcome is the same smooth face. But the feeling is entirely different.
Here is how to groom like a professional, the old money way.
Why the Old Money Man Treats Shaving as Ritual, Not Rush
There is a reason quality shaving tools have remained unchanged for over a century. A safety razor, a badger brush, a natural soap — these are not nostalgia. They are superior tools that reward patience and punish haste. The man who shaves with a multi-blade cartridge and canned foam is solving for convenience. The man who shaves with a safety razor and a brush is solving for quality. Both achieve a shave. Only one enjoys the process.
Entrepreneur and style authority Derek Guy (Die, Workwear!) once observed: "The things you do every day deserve your attention, not your autopilot. Shaving, dressing, making coffee — these small rituals compound into a life lived with intention."
The Philosophy of Slow Grooming
Fast grooming is reactive: remove hair, stop irritation, escape the bathroom. Slow grooming is proactive: prepare the skin, soften the hair, shave with the grain, soothe afterwards. The difference is not just in the outcome — fewer nicks, less irritation, a closer shave — but in the experience. A man who shaves slowly starts his day slowly. A man who starts his day slowly makes better decisions. The ritual matters.
The Essential Tools (Buy Once, Use for Decades)
Professional-grade grooming requires professional-grade tools. Here is the old money shaving kit that will outlast any cartridge system by years.
A Safety Razor (Not a Cartridge)
A double-edge safety razor is the single most important upgrade a man can make. The razor itself is a one-time purchase — brass, stainless steel, or chrome — that will last a lifetime. Replacement blades cost pennies. The shave is closer, the irritation is less, and the experience is infinitely more satisfying than any multi-blade cartridge.
What to look for: A weighted handle (50-100 grams), a moderate blade gap (not too aggressive for beginners), and a knurled grip that does not slip when wet. Merkur, Mühle, and Edwin Jagger are reliable entry points.
A Badger or Boar Bristle Brush
Canned foam is for convenience, not quality. A brush and soap create a lather that hydrates and lifts hair rather than just coating it. Badger bristle (soft, water-retentive) is the traditional choice. Boar bristle (stiffer, exfoliating) is an excellent alternative at a lower price.
What to look for: Pure or best badger for beginners. Avoid synthetic bristles — they do not hold water or heat the same way natural bristles do.
Shaving Soap or Cream (Not Aerosol)
A quality soap or cream from a traditional house — Taylor of Old Bond Street, Geo F. Trumper, Proraso — will last for months and cost less per shave than canned foam. The difference is immediately obvious: richer lather, better glide, and a scent that belongs in a gentleman's bathroom, not a gas station.
Alcohol-Free Aftershave Balm
A splash of alcohol-based aftershave burns because it is damaging your skin. Alcohol strips natural oils and causes dryness, redness, and premature ageing. The old money choice is an alcohol-free balm with natural ingredients: aloe, chamomile, vitamin E. Your face will thank you in twenty years.
Television personality and grooming authority Queer Eye's Jonathan Van Ness advises: "Your face is not a war zone. Treat it like the delicate ecosystem it is. That means no cheap aerosols and no burning alcohol splashes."
The Professional Shave: A 10-Minute Routine
Speed comes with practice. But the routine itself never changes. Follow these steps in order.
Step 1: Prepare the Face (2 Minutes)
Shower first. The steam and hot water soften hair follicles and open pores. If you cannot shower, hold a hot towel against your face for 60 seconds. Do not skip this step — rushed preparation is the number one cause of razor burn and nicks.
Step 2: Build the Lather (1 Minute)
Soak your brush in warm water while you prepare. Shake out excess water (damp, not dripping). Swirl the brush on your soap or cream for 30 seconds until a dense lather forms. Apply to your face in circular motions, lifting the hair away from the skin.
Step 3: First Pass — With the Grain (3 Minutes)
Hold the safety razor at a 30-degree angle to your skin. Use no pressure — the weight of the razor does the work. Shave in the direction of hair growth (downward on most of the face). Rinse the blade after every stroke. This pass removes the bulk of the hair with minimal irritation.
Step 4: Second Pass — Across the Grain (2 Minutes)
Re-lather. Shave perpendicular to the direction of hair growth. This pass gets closer without the irritation of going against the grain. For most men, two passes are enough for a professional-quality shave.
Step 5: Rinse and Inspect (1 Minute)
Rinse with cool water to close pores. Run your fingers across your face to feel for missed patches. Touch up any spots with light, careful strokes — no pressure.
Step 6: Aftershave Balm (1 Minute)
Pat your face dry with a clean towel. Apply a pea-sized amount of alcohol-free balm to your palms and press into your skin. Do not rub aggressively. Let the balm absorb while you finish dressing.
As fashion designer Tom Ford, known for his impeccably groomed personal appearance, once said: Grooming is not vanity. It is self-respect. The way you present yourself to the world begins with how you treat yourself in the mirror."
Common Shaving Mistakes (And How Old Money Men Avoid Them)
Most men make these errors daily without realising. Correct them, and your shave improves immediately.
Mistake #1: Pressing Too Hard
Pressure causes nicks, irritation, and razor burn. A safety razor's weight is sufficient. Let the razor do the work. Your hand is only there to guide it.
Mistake #2: Using Dull Blades
A safety razor blade should be changed every 3-5 shaves. Blades are cheap — pennies each. A dull blade pulls hair rather than cutting it, causing irritation and an uncomfortable shave. Change more often than you think you need to.
Mistake #3: Shaving Against the Grain on the First Pass
Against the grain is for the third pass, if at all. Shaving against the grain on the first pass guarantees irritation and increases the risk of ingrown hairs. Respect the direction of your hair growth.
Mistake #4: Skipping Preparation
A dry shave is a bad shave. Always prepare with hot water and quality lather. The three minutes you save by rushing are not worth the redness and discomfort that follow.
Mistake #5: Using the Wrong Aftershave
Aftershave splashes with alcohol feel bracing. They are also damaging your skin's moisture barrier. Switch to a balm. Your face will look healthier within a week.
Entrepreneur and grooming brand founder Eric Bandholz of Beardbrand puts it simply: "Your shave routine is the first decision you make every day. Do it poorly, and you start poorly. Do it well, and the rest of the day follows."
The Connection Between Grooming and Dressing Well
An old money man does not shave well because he has time. He makes time because he understands that grooming and dressing are connected. Quality compounds. The man who shaves well is more likely to dress well. The man who dresses well is more likely to carry himself well. The man who carries himself well is more likely to live well. It all starts with five minutes of attention in front of the mirror — not rushing, not performing, just caring for himself with the same quiet confidence he brings to everything else.
That is the old money way. Not luxury for its own sake. But intention applied to every small act — including how you remove your whiskers.