Style Guides

The pocket square is the detail that separates a man who is dressed from a man who has finished dressing. It costs almost nothing relative to the rest of a man's wardrobe. It takes thirty seconds to fold. And it communicates, in that small square of fabric, an attention to detail that no other single accessory quite replicates.

The old money approach to the pocket square is built on one principle that runs through everything: it should look as though it happened without effort. Beau Brummell — the original architect of the well-dressed English gentleman — was said to spend hours every day making it appear as though every article he wore had been casually thrown on. The pocket square is where that principle finds its most direct application. Here is how to get it right.

The Fabrics: Choose Your Material Before You Choose Your Fold

The fabric of a pocket square determines which folds are possible and which occasions it suits. Getting this right before reaching for the fold is the foundation of wearing one correctly.

White Linen: The Most Correct Choice

A plain white linen pocket square is the default of the old money wardrobe — and for good reason. It works at every level of formality from business suits to black tie. It communicates nothing about trend or season. It is simply correct. The stiffness of linen holds crisp folds well, making it ideal for the presidential flat fold and the one-point fold. As Giorgio Armani put it: "Elegance doesn't mean being noticed, it means being remembered." A white linen pocket square in a clean flat fold is exactly that kind of elegance — present, precise, and entirely without announcement.

Silk: For Colour and Pattern

Silk pocket squares — in solid colours, paisleys, or small geometric patterns — are the choice for adding personality to a tailored outfit without disrupting its formality. The drape of silk makes it ideal for the puff fold and its variations, where the softness of the fabric creates the organic, unstudied appearance that the old money aesthetic prizes. Silk is appropriate for business suits, blazers, and all social occasions. Match the fabric weight to the suit: a light summer suit calls for a lighter silk; a heavy flannel suit earns a more substantial silk or a silk-wool blend.

Cotton: For Casual and Smart-Casual Settings

Cotton pocket squares — particularly in pale blue, cream, or a subtle pattern — work well with sport coats, blazers, and less formal suits. They hold creases reasonably well and have a slightly more relaxed appearance than linen or silk, which makes them ideal for the one-point fold and the casual puff in smart-casual settings.

The Four Folds Every Man Should Know

There are dozens of documented pocket square folds. Most men need four. These four cover every occasion, every formality level, and every fabric — and they are the ones that have been worn correctly by the best-dressed men for the past century.

The Presidential Flat Fold: For Formal and Business Occasions

The most formal and most restrained fold available. Fold the pocket square in half, then in half again, then fold once more vertically until you have a small rectangle. Tuck into the breast pocket with only a thin, clean edge of white linen visible above the pocket line — approximately a quarter of an inch. No peaks, no puffs, no drama.

This is the fold for black tie, formal business settings, and any occasion where the pocket square should be present but invisible. A white linen presidential fold communicates that you know the rules and choose to follow them — which is, in the old money tradition, the most powerful statement available. Winston Churchill, JFK, and Cary Grant all wore this fold regularly. It has not become less correct with time.

The One-Point Fold: For Business and Social Occasions

The most versatile fold in the pocket square repertoire. Lay the pocket square flat in a diamond shape, fold in half corner to corner to form a triangle, then fold the two outer corners slightly over the centre to form a cone. Tuck into the pocket with a single point facing upward.

This fold suits any pocket square — solid or patterned, silk or cotton — and any occasion from a business meeting to a smart dinner. The single point is more expressive than the flat presidential fold without crossing into ostentation. It is the fold that most men should wear most of the time, and the one that most reliably communicates a considered, finished appearance.

The Puff Fold: For Casual Blazers and Sport Coats

The puff fold is the deliberately unstudied fold — the one that communicates sprezzatura most directly. Pinch the pocket square at its centre and lift upward. Allow the edges to fall naturally. Fold the excess fabric inward to fit the pocket width and tuck in, leaving the puff visible above the pocket line.

The key is that the puff should look organic, not arranged. Winston Churchill was a puff fold man, particularly in polka dots. The puff works best in soft silk or lightweight cotton — stiff linen will not drape correctly and will work its way out of the pocket over the course of the day. Reserve the puff for blazers and sport coats rather than formal suits, where the flat fold or one-point fold is more appropriate.

The Two-Point Fold: For Patterned Squares and Personality

Fold the pocket square corner to corner to form a triangle, leaving the two points slightly offset rather than aligned. Fold one side inward across two-thirds of the length, do the same on the other side, then fold the bottom behind itself to reach the correct height. Tuck into the pocket with two points visible — one slightly higher than the other.

The deliberate asymmetry of the two-point fold is what makes it an old money choice: it looks considered without looking arranged, which is the precise effect the aesthetic is always aiming for. It works particularly well with patterned silk squares where the pattern benefits from being displayed at two points rather than one.

The Rules That Apply to Every Pocket Square

Beyond the fold itself, a small number of rules govern how a pocket square should be worn — and following them is what separates a man who wears one correctly from one who merely wears one.

Never Match Your Pocket Square Exactly to Your Tie

A pocket square that matches the tie precisely — same fabric, same pattern, same colour — communicates that you bought them as a set and wore them as instructed. It looks like an instruction followed rather than a choice made. The correct approach: complement rather than match. A navy tie with a pale blue or white pocket square. A burgundy tie with a cream or white pocket square. A patterned tie with a solid pocket square in one of its secondary colours. The relationship should be harmonious, not identical. As Ralph Lauren put it: "I'm interested in longevity, timelessness, style — not fashion." A matching set is fashion. A considered complement is style.

The Pocket Square Should Finish the Outfit, Not Lead It

A pocket square is a supporting detail, not a statement piece. If it is the most interesting thing about your outfit, something else has gone wrong. The correct amount of pocket square visible above the pocket line is modest — enough to be seen, not enough to demand attention. The presidential fold: a quarter inch of white. The one-point: a single clean point. The puff: a soft mound of fabric. None of these should be fighting for visual priority with your suit, your shirt, or your tie.

A Pocket Square Without a Tie Is Entirely Correct

One of the most useful applications of the pocket square in the modern wardrobe is the blazer worn without a tie — a smart-casual combination that has become the dominant register for most men's formal social occasions. A pocket square in the breast pocket of an open-collared blazer adds the finishing detail that a tieless outfit can otherwise lack. Use a puff fold or a one-point fold in a soft colour — pale blue, burgundy, cream — and the combination is entirely complete.