Tips

The cufflink is the quietest power move in menswear. It is small — barely noticed by most. But the men who notice it notice everything. A pair of cufflinks says: I own a shirt that requires cufflinks. I understand the difference between formal and casual. I pay attention to details that others overlook. In the old money vocabulary, the cufflink is a single, silent word. And like any word, it loses its power when used too often or in the wrong context.

Here is the gentleman's guide to wielding that power correctly.

What Cufflinks Signal (Beyond the Obvious)

A cufflink is not an accessory. It is a requirement of a specific type of shirt: the French cuff (also called the double cuff). A shirt with French cuffs has no buttons at the wrist. It requires cufflinks to function. Wearing cufflinks, therefore, signals that you are wearing a French cuff shirt — which itself signals that you have chosen a more formal, more traditional garment than the standard button cuff.

Fashion designer Tom Ford, known for his exacting standards, once said: "Details are not the details. They make the design." The cufflink is a detail that makes the entire outfit more intentional. It says you did not just grab the first shirt in your closet. You selected this one for this occasion.

The Hierarchy of Cuff Formality

Understanding where cufflinks fit requires understanding the hierarchy of shirt cuffs. From most formal to least formal: (1) French cuff with cufflinks. (2) Single cuff with cufflinks (rare today). (3) Button cuff with two buttons. (4) Button cuff with one button. (5) Sport shirt with no cuff structure at all.

French cuffs sit at the top of this hierarchy. When you wear cufflinks, you are choosing the most formal cuff option available. That choice carries obligations. You cannot wear cufflinks with casual clothes any more than you can wear a bow tie with shorts. The formality must match.

When to Wear Cufflinks (The Green Light List)

Cufflinks belong at occasions where the dress code requires or strongly suggests a jacket and tie. Here is the specific list.

Black Tie Events (Always)

A tuxedo shirt has French cuffs by definition. Wear cufflinks. Silver, mother of pearl, or onyx are correct. Novelty cufflinks — sports teams, cartoon characters, humorous messages — are never correct, especially not at black tie.

Weddings (As a Guest or Groom)

If you are wearing a suit to a wedding, cufflinks are appropriate. Choose something understated: silver, gold, or enamel in a solid colour. The wedding is about the couple, not your accessories. Let the cufflinks be felt, not seen.

Formal Business Events

Client dinners, board meetings, industry galas — any business occasion where a suit is required. Cufflinks signal that you understand the weight of the event. Avoid anything flashy. A simple metal knot or a small geometric design is perfect.

Court Appearances

If you are appearing before a judge, wear cufflinks. The formality signals respect for the institution. Silver or gold. Nothing that draws attention.

Opera, Theatre, or Symphony

An evening at the performing arts centre calls for a suit or a tuxedo. French cuffs are expected. Wear cufflinks. You are participating in a ritual that has remained unchanged for generations. Dress accordingly.

Television personality and style mentor Tim Gunn once advised: "When in doubt, err on the side of formality. A gentleman never apologises for being slightly overdressed. He apologises only for being underdressed." Cufflinks are never the wrong choice at a formal event.

When NOT to Wear Cufflinks (The Red Light List)

More men get cufflinks wrong by wearing them when they should not than by choosing the wrong style. Here is where to leave them in the box.

At the Office Without a Jacket

A French cuff shirt without a jacket looks incomplete — like a tuxedo without the bow tie. The exposed cufflink draws attention to itself because the context is wrong. If your office is business casual, wear button cuffs. Save the French cuffs for days when you are also wearing a jacket.

With Jeans (Ever)

Cufflinks and jeans do not belong in the same sentence. The formality gap is unbridgeable. Wearing French cuffs with jeans announces that you do not understand the rules. It is the menswear equivalent of wearing a top hat with a tracksuit.

With a Cardigan or Sweater (Yes, Even a Stedford One)

A cardigan over a French cuff shirt forces the cufflink to sit awkwardly against the knit. The result looks busy and unintentional. If you are wearing a cardigan — even the finest cashmere — choose a button cuff shirt. The cardigan is already making a relaxed statement. Let it.

At Casual Dinners or Drinks

If the dress code does not require a jacket, it does not require cufflinks. Wearing them anyway reads as trying too hard. The goal is quiet confidence, not desperate formality. Relax. Button cuffs are perfectly appropriate.

During Travel

Airports, trains, and road trips demand comfort and practicality. French cuffs are neither. Save them for the destination, not the journey. A button cuff shirt is easier to roll up, easier to wash, and less likely to catch on luggage straps.

Entrepreneur and style authority Derek Guy (Die, Workwear!) puts it bluntly: "Cufflinks are not an upgrade. They are a different category entirely. Wearing them casually is like wearing a tuxedo to a barbecue. You are not better dressed. You are just wrong."

Choosing the Right Cufflinks: The Old Money Principles

Once you know when to wear them, you must know what to wear. These principles separate the gentleman from the novelty-shopper.

Material Matters Most

Silver (sterling or plated), gold, mother of pearl, onyx, enamel, and silk knot (for less formal occasions). These materials have been correct for generations. Avoid anything plastic, acrylic, or "fashion" metal. Avoid crystals, coloured stones, or anything that sparkles excessively. A gentleman's cufflinks are seen upon close inspection, not from across the room.

The Knot Cufflink is Never Wrong

The simple metal knot — rounded or faceted — is the most versatile cufflink in existence. It works with every formal outfit, from business suit to black tie. Every man should own at least one pair of knot cufflinks in silver or white gold.

Novelty Cufflinks Are for Weekends Only (If Ever)

Your favourite sports team. A humorous shape. A commemorative coin. These might be acceptable at a casual Friday office or a family barbecue. They are never acceptable at a wedding, a funeral, a court appearance, or any event where you want to be taken seriously.

Match Your Metals (Generally)

Silver cufflinks with silver watch. Gold cufflinks with gold watch. This is a reliable rule. Exceptions exist for mixed-metal watches, but the safe choice is to match. Belt buckle and cufflinks need not match exactly, but they should not clash violently.

As the late designer Karl Lagerfeld said: "One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a little black dress." For men, the same principle applies to a pair of simple silver knot cufflinks. They are never the wrong choice when the occasion calls for formality.

How to Wear Cufflinks Correctly (The Mechanics)

Knowing when to wear cufflinks is useless if you do not know how to put them on properly.

The Folding Method

A French cuff is not a simple tube. It is designed to be folded back. Lay the shirt cuff flat. Fold it back at the fold line sewn into the cuff. Align the two holes. Insert the cufflink from the outside, passing through both layers. Flip the toggle or secure the clasp on the inside of the wrist. The decorative face of the cufflink should be visible on the outside of your wrist.

The Fit Check

A French cuff should not be tight. You should be able to slide one finger between the cuff and your wrist. If the cuff is too tight, the cufflink will strain and look distorted. If it is too loose, the cuff will slide over your hand. Get your dress shirts properly fitted.

The Visibility Rule

Your cufflink should be visible when your arms are at your sides — but only just. The cuff should extend approximately half an inch past your jacket sleeve. This is the classic menswear proportion. If your jacket sleeves are too long or too short, no cufflink will look correct.

Television personality and style icon Nick Wooster offers this practical advice: "The cufflink is the period at the end of your outfit's sentence. It finishes the thought. But if the sentence does not need a period, leave it out."

The Stedford Perspective: Details Without Desperation

Stedford knitwear is designed for the man who appreciates quiet luxury — the kind that does not need to announce itself. Cufflinks operate on the same principle. A man who wears cufflinks correctly does not mention his cufflinks. He does not draw attention to them. They are simply there, doing their quiet work, elevating his presence without ever demanding a compliment.

The same man who chooses a Stedford Quarter Zip in a quiet neutral is the man who chooses silver knot cufflinks over novelty options. He understands that quality is felt, not advertised. That discretion is more powerful than display. And that the most interesting details are the ones you notice only when you are paying close attention.

Cufflinks are not for every day. They are not for every shirt. They are not for every man. But for the man who knows when to wear them — and, just as importantly, when not to — they remain one of the most satisfying details in all of menswear. Wear them sparingly. Wear them correctly. And let their subtle power speak for itself.